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  • Zhao Bandi: art, fashion and carpetbagging

    panda_girl.jpg
    Attention grabbing panda babe

    Last week ESWN noted a letter by some Chinese citizens to SARFT demanding that Kung Fu Panda, the Steven Spielberg animation currently showing in movie theaters in China, be pulled. The letter begins thusly:

    As Chinese citizens, we firmly oppose the exhibition of the Hollywood movie Kung Fu Panda in China as of June 20. The reasons are as follows:

    Hollywood is the kind of place whose style and values create large numbers of people like Sharon Stone. She was the female actress who claimed that the earthquake in China was "karma." Not only was she not criticized by the "department unit," her "aura" was shining bright instead. Hollywood is the type of place which lovingly applaud the arrogance, hypocrisy and vileness of Sharon Stone. Only in an amoral place like Hollywood can Sharon Shone gain in popularity via a moral lapse.

    So this Hollywood is not stopping at exploiting and rejoining at the the disaster in China. It is now coming to dig gold in post-disaster China.

    A few days later, ESWN noted the following:

    Upon further examination, the top signee for the petition is none other than the man known as "Panda Man" Zhao Bandi, who has a fashion line based upon the national treasure of the panda and therefore has a clear interest in not wanting any dilution of his brand image.

    Yesterday, your correspondent received a press release that begins like this:

    BANDI PANDA’ Shop Opening: The first ’BANDI PANDA’ shop will be officially opened on June 22nd, 2008 in 798 Art District, Beijing. There will be a small reception held to celebrate for the launch of the new brand.

    Following up on his ’BANDI PANDA’ fashion show during China International Fashion Week which triggered ’fashion earthquake’ in China, artist Zhao Bandi is now involved in the field of fashion and will meet fashion consumers with his own products. In the new opening store, a series of fashionable T-shirts and accessories will be presented. In addition, the series of colourful panda plush toys which are specially designed for 2008 Beijing Olympics as Zhao Bandi’s 2008 Mascots will be on sale in the new shop.

    No gold digging there.

    Today, journalist and sardonic blogger Lian Yue posted a little poem titled Envy. In translation:

    A few days ago, I watched Kungfu Panda.
    
It's really good, ten points, five stars, fucking awesome, A +, strongly recommended.

    

When an artist calls for the boycott of another artist,

    The rules of literary criticism apply:
    
A boycott says nothing of truth or beauty, it's just pure jealousy.



    Spileberg's ability to draw crowds and applause, whatever subject matter it becomes a blockbuster
,
    He has money, status, depth, and a point of view about politics,
    
Aside from being envious, there's nothing other people can do.

    Zhao Bandi is no stranger to panda hype. See for example this 1999 story by your correspondent Zhao Bandi: Artist or Ad Man?.

    Links and Sources

    This article is from Danwei.org

  • Cool retro Chinese sneakers

    warrior sneakers.jpg
    Warrior sneakers

    Ye Shumeng, a Chinese born graphic designer now living in Helsinki, has produced a book of photographs of Chinese people wearing the old Chinese brand 'Warrior' sneakers. This is how she introduces the book, titled Book of Warriors.

    In the 1970s, Warrior basketball sneakers were a much sought after status symbol in China. Many Chinese teenagers dreamed of a pair of white Warrior sneakers.

    ye_shumeng_warrior.jpg
    Road Warrior

    Three decades later, these sneakers are still well known among the Chinese people but they are no longer objects of desire. They are used by the elderly and by poor villagers doing physical labour at construction sites and pulling rickshaws. They are used by Chinese working class heroes. Today’s Chinese youngsters dream of Nike or Converse.

    Inspired by their unique and classic style, I took pictures of people wearing Warriors in various areas of China in 2007. Now these pictures have been released as the Book of Warriors and each copy is accompanied by a pair of Warrior sneakers. Through my book, I hope to tell the story behind the shoes and I would like show a different side of China. Not the industrial and economical power, but the daily life of a country with its own distinctive sneaker culture.

    bloomsneakers.jpg
    Orlando Bloom in Feiyue sneakers

    You can buy the Book of Warriors online, and at trendy stores like Colette in Paris (there is a list of stores that stock the book on the book's website). Every Book of Warriors comes with a pair of original Warrior sneakers.

    Old Chinese sneaker brands have been getting a lot of attention these days. Chinese media has been talking recently about the reinvention in the west of the old Chinese brand Feiyue (Flying Forward). Not long ago, Feiyue was one of the cheapest brands of sneakers in China, selling for 25 to 35 yuan.

    In 2006 a French company bought the label and began selling them in London and Paris for 40 to 50 Euro. A photo of Orlando Bloom wearing Feiyue recently made the rounds of Chinese web forums.

    Links and Sources

    This article is from Danwei.org

  • Souvenir of nationalism 2008

    too_cnn_t-shirt.jpg
    Souvenir of Beijing 2008

    In 1991 T-shirts printed with cynical messages such as "I'm fed up! Leave me alone!" and "Getting rich is all there is" began to appear in Beijing and soon became popular with young people. They were known as 'cultural shirts' (文化衫).

    As a 1991 New York Times article put it , the slogans were "not openly critical of the Government, but they convey a sense of being withdrawn, rebellious and hopeless -- instead of the gung-ho enthusiasm for Communism that young people are supposed to feel."

    The T-shirts were soon banned. The Times article cited above also quoted the China Youth Daily about the shirts:

    "Cultural shirts are not a Chinese invention, they are only a foreign trick borrowed from the West, where they have existed for decades. If we make a little study, we find that Westerners wear such shirts as an expression of decadent feelings."

    Remembering those T-shirts, blogger an journalist Wang Xiaofeng decided to buy an anti-CNN T-shirt, although it does not sound like he is planning to wear it. Below is a translation of his post about the T-shirts.

    Too CNN

    by Wang Xiaofeng

    Every year at this time, I buy T-shirts. Last year was annoying because I did not like any of the popular T-shirts. They either had logos printed on them or shiny plastic decorations, all stupid. I don't know what the people who designed those shirts were thinking; so last year I did not buy T-shirts.

    Today I planned to buy a wok. I ended up buying a pile of records. The pirate CDs are getting better and better, but the music on them is terrible. I strolled around for a while and found a clothing shop selling T-shirts. I had a look and saw an anti-CNN T-shirt. Chinese people react really quickly: over there they are busy cursing CNN, over here they have already released a line of products. This proves that in certain situations, politics quickly becomes fashion.

    At first I had no intention of buying a shirt like this because even if I wanted to, I can't get CNN. Anyway, let them say whatever they want, you can't demand that they say China's situation is excellent all day long. Reconsidering my decision, I thought that this T-shirt has great value as a souvenir. After several years, taking out this T-shirt and looking at it will be a lot of fun, like looking at [1996 nationalist bestselling book] China Can Say No or [1998 Hong Kong soft porn film] Sex and Zen right now. Even better would be if someone would print 'Boycott Carrefour' T-shirts. Collecting a lot of these T-shirts is like recording history.

    
Right now my biggest regret is that I bought a T-shirt printed with "I'm fed up! Leave me alone!", such a classic, but I later threw it away.

    So I decided to buy a 'Don’t be like CNN' T-shirt although to make the shirt perfect, there should be an additional sentence: 'Just like CCTV'.

    

Finally, I did manage to buy a wok.

    Links and Sources

    This article is from Danwei.org

  • xinsrc_07211040509223121884710.jpg
    Zhao Bandi panda fetish, now wearable

    Xinhua has published the photo reproduced here as part of a gallery that is described thusly:

    A model presents a creation for Bandi-Panda fashion show by Chinese conceptual artist Zhao Bandi at China Fashion Week in Beijing Nov. 4, 2007. Zhao uses the medium of fashion to present 33 Chinese social classes and social issues.

    This description makes it a little difficult to take the work seriously, especially when the work looks like this, but Zhao Bandi has been pursuing his panda fixation for more than a decade, in photography and fine art. It makes a little more sense when you know the background.

    The article was below by your correspondent was printed in the now defunct Beijing Scene in 1999. It's still up on Beijing Scene's website (which amazingly still works), or you can read it below.


    The whimsical work of Zhao Bandi

    Zhao Bandi is a soft-spoken, 34-year old graduate of the Central Academy of Fine Arts, whose work has been shown in renowned galleries as far afield as New York, Rotterdam, London and Sydney. The Beijing-born and bred artist is also a celebrity in the capital, recently rising to fame in the unlikely field of public service advertising.

    Zhao's latest works are a series of photographs of himself and a toy panda bear, engaged in a cartoon speech-bubble dialogue about issues of concern to ordinary urban-dwellers-air pollution, violence, drug abuse and unemployment. The pictures were displayed at the prestigious Venice Biennale art show this year, among thousands of works from around the world including more than 50 pieces by 20 Mainland Chinese artists. Jaded critics arched their eyebrows at Zhao's photographs, and praised their "deadpan black humor" and "ironic wit."

    But accolades from foreign art pundits don't explain Zhao's fame at home. He is recognized in Beijing because the same works that were catching the art world's attention in Venice were simultaneously being displayed on 300 lightboxes at different locations in Beijing's subway system, and on smaller posters inside the trains themselves.

    zhao_bandi_panda_smoking.jpg
    Zhao's early panda work

    The Beijing "exhibition" was not organized through an art gallery, but by the artist himself after extensive negotiations with the Beijing subway authorities. The lightboxes were paid for with sponsorship from Kodak, and a printing company that displayed their logo on the photographs.

    The works stayed up in the subway for the month of May per contract, and many remain in place as the subway waits for a new paying client to fill the advertising space. Viewed by millions of commuters, Zhao and his panda have been extensively covered in the local press and featured on several television stations, including the central government-run China Central Television.

    Zhao's official reception hasn't always been positive. He has been accused by the Beijing Youth Daily of plagiarizing the dialogue for one of the photographs in which Zhao asks the panda "Do you mind if I smoke?" "Do you mind if I am extinct?" the panda replies. The Communist Youth Organization journal cited an American anti-smoking campaign from the early 1990s that shows a man asking a female companion the same question. She replies: "Do you mind if I die?" Communist Youth Organization journals are not known for their appreciation of cross-cultural satire.

    Zhao has also encountered problems due to his personal appearance. Although he dresses smartly and does not look remotely like a hippie, one television interview with him was rejected as unsuitable by the censors because of his long hair.

    Nonetheless, the naturally non-conformist Zhao is destined for further fame in the southern commercial center of Shenzhen, where he recently set up his posters on walls and pedestrian bridges. The photographs are being displayed as part of an exhibition, mostly of sculptures, entitled Balanced Existence: A Project for the Future of a Biological City that runs until the end of the year 2000.

    Despite the exhibition's name hinting at art with a direct connection to Shenzhen, Zhao is the only artist whose works are displayed outside of the gallery where they are visible to pedestrians and people passing by in cars.

    Big Brother Billboards

    To understand why Zhao's works are causing such a fuss, it is useful to consider the average public messages bombarding citizens every day.

    1. STRENUOUSLY CARRY OUT THE FOUR DO'S CAMPAIGN!
    2. BRING PROSPERITY TO THE MOTHERLAND THROUGH SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY!
    3. HOLD HIGH THE BANNER OF DENG XIAOPING THOUGHT!
    4. BE A CIVILIZED CITY DWELLER!

    These slogans are displayed on billboards across the nation, in stark red
    characters painted on whitewash, or printed across a background picture of
    flowers or of Tian'anmen Gate. Although the slogans appear to mean nothing
    at all, they are in fact trying to convey pragmatic messages that would, if
    phrased in understandable terms, appeal to most citizens' common sense.
    In plain language, these slogans mean:
    1. Respect yourself. Behave well. Be alert. Be independent.
    2. Get educated!
    3. Get rich without harming the peasants and the workers.
    4. Be nice to other people.

    The copy-writing comrades at the Propaganda Bureau have not noticed that things have moved on since 1951 when everybody in the whole country knew the exact meaning of the "Three Anti's."

    Ask a random ayi what the "three anti's" were and she will probably say: "Anti-corruption! Anti-waste! Anti-bureaucracy!"
    Ask her what the "Four Do's" are, and she will probably say: "Eh! Maybe something to do with clean toilets?"

    While the marketing people at Marlboro, Motorola, and even the Miyun Peanut Factory know exactly how to get their message across to trans-millennial consumers, the Propaganda Bureau still insists on addressing the People (i.e. consumers) in drab Partyspeak. So even when they have something useful to say, like "Don't drink a bottle of Erguotou and then go for a drive" or "Don't throw your trash in the street," their message occupies the average Zhou's attention for approximately 0.1 nanoseconds. Enter Zhao Bandi, handsome, well-traveled artist with ponytail, and Mi, fluffy toy panda bear (Made in China).

    Marching straight out of the art gallery into Beijing's subway system, Zhao and Mi have appealed to a broad range of people from old ladies to young hipsters with a mix of humor and concern for ordinary lives that is rarely given public expression in the PRC.

    "Modern society lacks a sense of humor. Everything is too pedantic. Watch TV anytime: there are a few public service advertisements that say a funny thing or two, but they always end up saying: 'Don't do this, don't do that? "I want my public service advertisements to be human and to appeal to human feelings."

    The Artist as a Young Advertising Man
    Zhao began making a name for himself in 1993 when his oil paintings were displayed in a China Avant-Garde exhibition that toured Europe. Coveted participation in the Venice Biennale this year seems like a crowning achievement for a young artist, but Zhao has increasingly found the air in art galleries to be a little too stuffy. "In Venice I felt constricted," he says, "there was no connection between the art and society." Having works displayed on underground trains ensures a connection to society, but is it art?

    "I don't really care what you call it?In my 'classical period' I painted and made sculptures and installations. Now I want to see if I can interact more directly with society in a beneficial way."

    Zhao says he hopes to popularize public service advertisements, and to transform his work from its marginal, 'alternative' (linglei) status to mainstream acceptance where it can influence a society that is suffering from a lack of spiritual civilization.

    He chose a panda bear as his comrade in arms in the struggle for public service because it is a rare and precious animal and a readily identifiable symbol of China. Despite this, Zhao says, no one has ever given the panda a lovable public face: "Think of the giant panda statue on the traffic circle near the Asian Games Village," he says, referring to a three-meter-tall fiber-glass Disney mutant built to entertain (or perhaps threaten) athletes who came to Beijing in 1992 to participate in the games. "That panda is a monster!"

    Dialogue With Whom?

    Although Zhao's latest works and his reluctance to talk about them as anything other than "public welfare advertisements" may seem a little like toadying to the powers-that-be, his statements about the Asian Games panda may be a clue to some of the more cutting commentary implicit in the photographs.

    Like government propaganda, the Asian Games panda is large, ominous, shoddily-made and imposed on the public by a faceless authority. By contrast, Zhao's panda is cute, humorous and created by an identifiable individual. Zhao's protests notwithstanding, his 'public welfare advertisements' do not offer glib answers to the difficult problems they are addressing, and they at least entertain the masses on their way to work. One of the photos depicts Zhao standing on a freeway pedestrian bridge with his back to the camera, saying "I am laid off." The panda-holding the neckstrap of a pair of binoculars-says, "Here's a present for you, it will make you look farther."

    If you live in Beijing, you know that on most days binoculars will not help you see any farther, because the yellow-gray substance that passes as air is not penetrable beyond 50 meters. In the photograph, Zhao is staring into a particularly soupy-looking patch of atmosphere above the traffic-clogged Third Ring Road. Which is a nice metaphor for the prospects of many people who have actually been laid off in the past few years.

    In another photograph from the series, Zhao wears a rubber Halloween mask, and asks the panda "Is there anything more terrible than me?" "It's DRUG!" answers Mi the panda.

    How menacing does Zhao actually look wearing that silly mask? This little cartoon skit doesn't really seem intended to discourage anyone from "inhaling." There is another more subtle dialogue going on behind the words Zhao exchanges with little Mi. A look at some of Zhao's previous work reveals an abiding concern for the language of advertising and propaganda, and the power it has over people's dreams.

    A 1998 photographic work depicts a large Hong Kong-style skyscraper. A glowing neon sign at the top of the building exhorts the viewer with a Cultural Revolution slogan written in English: "Never forget class struggle!"

    In 1996 Zhao produced the first of a series of 'calendar' photograph with alternative rock singer Zhang Qianqian. Simply titled Zhao Bandi and Zhang Qianqian, the photograph depicts Zhao steering a small boat through heavy green water lilies on a lake in Baiyangdian, Hebei province, the site of a Communist guerrilla victory over Japanese forces. Zhao wears a dressing gown; Zhang wears a feminine summer dress, short top and embraces a toy panda bear. Both have the kind of lyrical facial expressions that models assume when they pose for shmaltzy photo album covers and karaoke videos.

    Both works depict a shiny, dreamy surface-the skyscraper and the luxurious-looking honeymoon scene-with a more sinister past hinted at by a Cultural Revolution slogan that most people would rather forget, and a place that reminds Chinese people of the bitter war against the invading Japanese Imperial Army.

    Nuances such as these distinguish Zhao's works from advertising and its twin sister propaganda because no matter how much you speculate about what they mean, their message remains ambiguous. Breaking out of the art gallery and into public spaces does however send the citizens of Beijing one message that is perfectly clear: the days of government monopoly on public expression are long gone. Gone too, if Zhao has his way, is the gilded cage that contemporary Chinese art has been suffocating in since the first unofficial art emerged in the late 1970s, to the horror of the Ministry of Culture and the delight of fashionable collectors of art from countries where they don't write with the Roman alphabet.

    This article is from Danwei.org

  • The eyes have it

    JDM070911zhaoshen.jpg
    Big-eyed goddess Vicki Zhao vs. Shen Weifeng
    Business journalist Shen Weifeng is known her columns about workplace life, and a book that applies the characters and situations in Dream of the Red Mansions to the modern office. She wrote a follow-up book that drew on the characters in Louis Cha's novels, and this year wrote about how Taobao toppled eBay.

    That's not what we're looking at today, however. In last week's issue of China Newsweek, Shen wrote a short piece about the quest for larger eyes:

    The big secret of small eyes

    by Shen Weifeng

    Though the first and second leading ladies in a novel may be described in detail, it all boils down to this: one is slender, the other full-figured; one has character, the other has looks. And perhaps there's one more thing to add so that everyone can come to a conclusion: one has small eyes, the other has big eyes. Hence, one could draw the conclusion that, hey, this is the traditional Chinese standard of beauty: big-eyed girls are more beautiful.

    I unconditionally support this conclusion. It was in the second grade that I first heard that the world contained such things as "single eyelids" and "double eyelids," whereupon I went home and asked my mother was double eyelids were. She could find no good examples to show to me, however, and from then on my destiny was apart from double eyelids. At the same time, this also meant that from then on I was fated to have nothing to do with big eyes.

    I didn't really care much about it myself. Besides, over a couple of decades, there have always been people to soothe me with true compassion or false intentions, telling me that single eyelids, so unique and special, are all the rage. So the days passed, one by one. Of course, I knew that they were lying to me. According to their words, single eyelids have been popular for who knows how many years now, but they've never broken into the mainstream of social popularity. Getting surgery for double eyelids doesn't even rate as a face-lift today. But then I had to go on a few TV shows, and when they were broadcast, I planted myself on a short stool in front of the TV, waiting idiotically to see myself. When my scene came, I turned off the TV in a flash and said to myself, "it's just an illusion. Definitely just an illusion. That eyeless face that filled the screen wasn't me. It couldn't have been me."

    Before the echo of my words had dissipated, the telephone rang. A relative whom I had not instructed to watch TV telephoned to say, "I saw you! You look prettier on TV!" I sulked for a few days, and then studied the TV intently for a few days. Finally I came to believe the saying that according to scientific research, when someone looks at themselves in a mirror, they find themselves 30% more beautiful than they really are. I thought that my brain had probably automatically PSed my eyes to make them 30% bigger than they really were.

    But then isn't there a way to do that PS job in real life? I timidly asked a beautiful friend of mine for help. She's a TV host, but what surprised me was that her eyes are single lidded. She told me that the secret was to apply eyeliner, to apply it like mad - enlarge the boundary of your eye sockets by 30%, and you're there, right? Such sweet wisdom. I was ready to try it out when her boyfriend, a professional cinematographer, warned me to be cautious with that method. He said that using makeup techniques to enlarge the eyes is a professional skill. If I could do it by myself at home, then all those makeup artists would be out of a job.

    "Eye makeup is really important you know," he said. "Those stars have big enough eyes already, but would they dare go on screen with naked eyes? They put on four or five layers of makeup and then fake eyelashes, double-eyelid tape, and contacts. Not a one can be left out. Good stuff. It takes an hour or two to put on. As for you..." He carefully studied me, and then shook his head. "You've got two roads. One, go and get surgery; two, forget your dreams of being a beauty."

    Links and Sources
    • Image of Zhao Wei from cns
    • Image of Shen Weifeng from Fei Report

    This article is from Danwei.org

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